BMW E90 Oil Change & Oil Filter Replacement Guidelines. Today we are bringing you a guide on how to change the oil and filter on your E90 BMW. The car in the pictures is a 2006 325i, but the process and basic location of oil filter and drain bolt are the same throughout all E90’s (and E91/92/93’s), including the 328i and 335i, and other models. This guide is valuable and likewise accurate for E82 128i and 135i oil modifications, and E60 5-series oil changes.
As soon as you have car ramps, socket wrenches, and an oil filter wrench, the cost of change your oil will be about $85 and 20 minutes of time. The car dealership will generally charge $100-150 for an oil modification so you save a little money and it takes practically no time at all. Also worth noting that some individuals will utilize aftermarket oil (Mobil1, and so on) to make it cheaper, however we recommend using the Genuine BMW things.
Tools Required to Modification your BMW Oil
- Rhino Car Ramps (~$ 40).
- 17mm Socket Wrench (~$ 10).
- Oil Filter Wrench (~$ 34).
This is BMW specific so I advise utilizing the one I connected to, which will deal with all E82, e90-93, and e60 cars. Keep in mind: you can also attempt a strap wrench if you have one handy, but my filter cap was so tight a strap wrench wasn’t good enough.
Parts Needed for E90 Oil Modification.
BMW Oil Filter – Part # 11 42 7 953 129 (~$ 10).
This part will fit all E82, e60, and e90-93 cars as well as the Z4 (amongst some newer vehicles too). The OEM brand is Mann – the aftermarket variations are like $1 less expensive so simply buy the Mann filter. If you use the one in the link, you should be excellent to go!
7 Quarts (or 6.5 L) of Synthetic 5w-30 BMW Oil (~$ 75).
- BMW Part # 83 21 2 365 946.
- Liqui Moly is the very best stuff in the game! Imported from Germany.
Actions for Change your BMW Oil:
1. Drive the car on the ramps.
You can also utilize a hydraulic jack and jack stands if you prefer, if you do this you will need a BMW jack pad adapter. To do this you will require to raise the car from both the front left and front right sides, because the jack spot in the front of the car is inaccessible even with a low-profile jack.
On cars with the sport bundle, the flap beneath the front bumper is going to hit the ramps before the tires do which can cause the ramps to slide backwards from time to time. Try putting something heavy behind the ramps if you are running into this concern.
2. Get rid of the oil cap and oil filter housing.
Initially, loosen the oil cap – aka the location you will be putting the new oil into. Opening this will assist all the old oil flow out efficiently. The cap is located right on the top of the engine cover – you can see it unscrewed in the picture listed below.
Next, utilize your oil filter wrench to loosen the oil filter housing. You can see the location of this on the pic listed below – it is the same for all engines. Mine was stuck so tight that I had to use a breaker bar with the filter wrench just to get it off.
Here is what your engine ought to look like with the oil cap off and oil filter housing out:
You can alter out the filter now if you ‘d like, but I choose to move onto draining pipes the oil and replacing the filter while the oil is draining pipes since it will take a few minutes.
3. Get rid of the oil drain plug and drain pipes the oil.
This will require a 17mm socket wrench and an oil catch can that can hold up to 6.5 L of oil.
Find the drain plug and get rid of the cover for it. If you look at the below pictures, the red circle is where the oil drain plug is located if you are looking at the bottom of your car from below the front bumper. The 2nd picture shows what the cover looks like – underneath this cover is where the drain plug is.
Remove it by utilizing your finger or a flat head screw driver to spin the piece of plastic 180 degrees when you locate the cover.
Once you have eliminated the drain plug cover, here is what you need to see:
4. Utilize your 17mm wrench and let the oil drain.
Pretty self explanatory here, eliminate the bolt, with your catch can located below it and let it drain. This will generally take 3-4 minutes to get all of it out. While this is happening releases ahead and change the oil filter.
NOTE: the drain plug has a crush washer on it. Your brand-new oil filter package need to have a new crush washer with it – make certain you eliminate the old one and remember to utilize the new one.
5. Replace the oil filter and oil filter o-rings.
You will observe that the oil filter sits inside of the housing, which has a pole in the middle of it that protrudes. The filter needs to be securely set in there, however need to eliminate quickly by simply pulling upwards on it.
Pull upwards and pull the filter out.
You will observe you have 2 new o-rings that included the filter package. The huge black one goes on the threads of the filter housing and the little green one goes on the suggestion of the pole sticking out of the housing. When you put the drain plug back on, the gold washer that is also in the filter kit is the brand-new crush washer that you need to utilize.
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Remove the oil o-rings and change them with the new ones. These are a little tough to eliminate in some cases – I used a small flat head screwdriver, however be careful doing this one the huge o-ring as you do not wish to harm the housing or threads.
Once these are changed, go on and move the brand-new filter into location in the housing.
Here is an image of the old filter (still in the housing) beside the brand-new filter.
Here is what the filter and housing need to look like with the brand-new filter installed.
6. Screw the oil filter housing on & tighten up the drain bolt.
Now that you have the new filter in the housing, proceed and attach it back onto the engine. You want to ensure it is firm and tightly sealed since the within experiences high pressure which can cause oil leakages if not sealed correctly.
The oil must be fully drained pipes so get below the car and change the drain bolt. Ensure you swap out the old crush washer with the brand-new one! Tighten it by hand with a typical wrench – don’t go overkill on it with a torque wrench.
Now, change the drain plug cover.
7. Pour in 7 Quarts of 5w-30 Oil.
Utilize a cone filter and put almost all of the oil bottles you bought into the engine. I typically leave a quarter of a bottle approximately in 7th container in order to avoid putting excessive in – although do not fret too much about this. You need to get a dash notification if you have insufficient in, and any excess will eventually get burned through by the engine.
Which it! As mentioned this need to only take 20 mins or two once you have done it as soon as and will conserve you a few dollars from the dealership. Any indy shop charging you less than $100 is likely using Castrol or Mobil1. Some individuals also use this when they replace by themselves, however the $15 of cost savings isn’t worth it to me.
